The trip took eight hours in total, including a stop in Los Olivos, where at ten thirty in the morning, the smell of tri tip permeated the air and the wineries were just starting to open their doors for tastings.
The sun was setting as I descended into the bay area and clouds revealed temporary and isolated views of the land and sea, not enough for me to get oriented. My destination was Hillside Gardens, which is also the venue for Savory Thymes, an event space run by my host, Ali Ghiorse. Ali started her work in San Francisco's Mission District, organizing community and outreach programs. Several years later, she moved to Mill Valley and teamed up with Hans Schoepflin to produced a variety of food events benefiting the non-profit sector. The events take place in an intimate amphitheater, tucked into the hillside on the lower portion of the property, sheltered by 200 foot eucalyptus trees and surrounded by lush gardens. They also keep a half dozen bee houses to help pollinate the flowers and a sweet little green house to start germination. Smaller events are held in a lovely dining room, beside a European style kitchen.
When I arrived there was a dinner party in progress. An Italian fellow brought flights of wine starting in the North of Italy and moving down South. Him and his wife lead trips to Sicily in the spring and summer and often organize underground supper parties at Ali's house. This Saturday, they are doing a Sicilian feast for 25, featuring a suckling pig from a local farm. I got invited once I told them what I do, thankfully.
The next morning I headed into North Western Mill Valley to Point Reyes Station, a small town who's focus is sustainable farming. It is home to Marin Organic, (an organization that supports local farmers) and the now famous Cowgirl Creamery. I ate lunch at Stellina, a local spot that does a lovely job of featuring all the meats, dairy and produce that the area has to offer. I had a fava bean leaf salad with a lemony blue cheese vinaigrette and an oyster and leek pizza that tasted sweet and like the sea. An interesting and eloquent combination.
Then I headed to Bolinas, where lush green farms stretched out across the countryside eventually meeting up with the ocean. It was hard to find because, apparently, the locals keep hiding the signs that indicate the town's location, to avoid an influx of tourists like myself. I followed Highway 1 up onto the ridge that follows the shoreline, several hundred feet above sea level. The road winds tightly around the mountains edge and one slip of the wheel has you plummeting to your ultimate demise. But it was beautiful . . . kelly green hills, dramatic rock formations, the water smashing against the cliffs and I was all alone. No cars, no houses, no people.
A sign said "San Francisco: 16 miles" and I could hardly believe that civilization was in such close proximity to this unearthly place.
That night, I went to the Buck Eye with Julie and Ali, an old steak and martini joint in Sausolito. Every town needs a good watering hole. Afterward, we headed to Julie's house boat, which is an experience unlike any I've had. The boats are all entirely unique in character; they almost look like they could talk and walk as if in Sesame Street. Each boat contains residents, all of which, according to Julie have an interesting story. There are some 200 boats in the community and approximately 450 residents. The area is tidal and when we were there, the boats were not afloat, they were resting on the sand. Julie tells me about her current project, "Swap Cabbage" a film about Florida Crackers. I can't wait to see it.
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